Chablis: The Wine Region Not The Brand

Posted On May 19, 2011 at 5:38 pm in Burgundy

In some parts of the world chablis is the brand name given to white wines made from almost any white grape. Chablis is also the name of the wine region at the northern boundery of Burgundy where white wines are exclusively made from chardonnay. Within the region there is also the small town of Chablis. So next time someone claims “I don’t like Chablis but love chardonnay” you can ask which one they are referring to, the wine region, the town or the “brand” and then mention Chablis from France is always made from chardonnay.

I recently spent a day there visiting a few of the producers that practice organic viticulture. Because Chablis is the close northern most limit of viable viticulture most growers want to have a full arsenal of products at their disposal to treat crops. The handful of producers who are certified organic must do a lot more work in the vineyards in order to have healthy grapes.

This work was going at full speed due to the warm and dry conditions. Vines are already two weeks ahead of recent vintages in the growth cycle and the all important flowering stage is getting ready to begin. Growers are worried about the lack of rain which combined with the warm conditions could produce another vintage like 2003. Wines from that year for the most part lacked the charm and restraint that makes Chablis great.

I love the style of chardonnay that’s dry, bright, has lively acidity, full-bodied but not heavy and has a lingering finish. Most producers in Chablis go for an similar understated style and are very restrained in their use of oak. They let the wines natural character shine through rather than the trying to marrying with vanilla and oak flavors.

 

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Posted by Greg Roberts No Comments »