Archive for the ‘Roussillon’ Category

The Classified Growths of the Languedoc-Roussillon

I visited Les Crus du Soleil wine shop today.  They only stock wines from the Languedoc-Roussillon including some of regions more celebrated producers like Mas Julien, Cyril Fahl’s Clos du Rouge Gorge and Domaine Borie de Maurel.

Crus du Soleil translated means classified growths from the sun.  Of course, unlike Burgundy, Bordeaux, Champagne, Alsace and even Provence where either vineyards or chateaux are classified, in the Languedoc-Roussillon no such system exists.  Even with the recognition that pioneering producers like Domaine du Dumas Gassac have given the region, up until 10 years ago, the very idea of a classification would have been laughed at.

Les Gros Rouge qui tache

This expression refers to the staining qualities of the rustic and tannic reds wines produced in the past. Destined for the masses, they were sometimes illegally blended with Algerian grapes to give better color to wines made from over-productive low quality varietals.  Grape growers of the era were more concerned with quantity in order to meet the then unlimited demand.  Times change.  The French are drinking less and the export market for these low quality indifferently made wines isn’t what it used to be.

Today, the Languedoc remains the world’s single biggest wine region but some producers who’s fathers and grandfathers once sold their grapes to the local cooperative are now making their own wines.  They have seized upon the untaped potential of very specific areas of the Languedoc-Rousillon where unique soils structures and hillside vineyards combine with favorable microclimates.  Here it’s possible to make wines that rival any in the world.

A cru system of sorts is also emerging.  Several smaller appellations like La Clape, Minervois, La Laviniere and Pic Saint Loup are being recognized for the high over-all quality of their producers.

Les Crus du Soleil, 146 Rue du Chateau Paris 75014,  Tél. : 01 45 39 78 99

Les Crus du Soleil

The New Wave of Roussillon Wines

vins doux natural aging at Mas Amiel in Maury in the Roussillon

I spent part of last week in Montpellier at two wines shows that showcase organic and bio-dynamic wines, Millisime Bio and a sort of alternative young winemaker show, La Remise.

La Remise seemed more like a gathering of friends than wine event.

I tasted some exciting wine at both shows but found many of the dry wines from the Roussillon especially impressive.  While many of the traditional grape varieties are the same as in the Languedoc – Syrah, Grenache, Mourvede, Carignan and Cinsault, in the Roussillon Grenache dominates red and rosé wines and is the only grape authorized for late harvest vins doux natural.

For many years, the Roussillon was best known for these sweet wines which have fallen somewhat out of fashion over the years.  Today many young winemakers have bought inexpensive land and are making dry wines.  With an average of 365 sunny days a year and dry conditions, organic viticulture is very manageable here.  Understandably, there’s a lot of buzz about the Roussillon with Jancis Robinson stating that it’s, “home to some of France’s most exciting red and whites”.