Maybe it’s a holdover from the ubiquitous and insipid blush wines that were so popular in the 1970s and 1980s, a mistaken association between pink(ish) wine and wine coolers, or simple wine snobbery.  Whatever the reason, it’s really a shame because a good dry rosé is a crisp, refreshing and incredibly versatile wine.  Rosés are a summer staple in our house when temperatures rise and a red can feel too heavy.  They pair particularly well with seafood, spicy flavors and foods cooked with olive oil, garlic and fresh herbs.

Château Moyau Rosé is a lovely dry rosé, made from a blend of 50% Grenache Noir, 30% Cinsault and 20% Syrah.  It is fruity (ripe berries, a hint of plum) with floral notes of rose, which are balanced by a lively acidity and complimented by a subtle minerality.  Great to quaff on its own, Château Moyau is also a natural for picnics, backyard cookouts and BBQs.

A vacation to the South of France may not be in the cards this year, but at $15 a bottle Château Moyau Rosé is an affordable way to recapture (or capture) the mood, especially when paired with this month’s recipe, a classic Salade Niçoise.

Classic Salade Niçoise *

Crus du Soleil translated means classified growths from the sun.  Of course, unlike Burgundy, Bordeaux, Champagne, Alsace and even Provence where either vineyards or chateaux are classified, in the Languedoc-Roussillon no such system exists.  Even with the recognition that pioneering producers like Domaine du Dumas Gassac have given the region, up until 10 years ago, the very idea of a classification would have been laughed at.

Les Gros Rouge qui tache

This expression refers to the staining qualities of the rustic and tannic reds wines produced in the past. Destined for the masses, they were sometimes illegally blended with Algerian grapes to give better color to wines made from over-productive low quality varietals.  Grape growers of the era were more concerned with quantity in order to meet the then unlimited demand.  Times change.  The French are drinking less and the export market for these low quality indifferently made wines isn’t what it used to be.

Today, the Languedoc remains the world’s single biggest wine region but some producers who’s fathers and grandfathers once sold their grapes to the local cooperative are now making their own wines.  They have seized upon the untaped potential of very specific areas of the Languedoc-Rousillon where unique soils structures and hillside vineyards combine with favorable microclimates.  Here it’s possible to make wines that rival any in the world.

A cru system of sorts is also emerging.  Several smaller appellations like La Clape, Minervois, La Laviniere and Pic Saint Loup are being recognized for the high over-all quality of their producers.

Les Crus du Soleil, 146 Rue du Chateau Paris 75014,  Tél. : 01 45 39 78 99

Les Crus du Soleil

Small vats at Combe Blanche

I was recently in the Languedoc tasting at two trade shows in Montpellier for organic and bio-dynamic wines, Millissime Bio and La Remise. While in the region I also took a brief detour one hour further south to visit with Guy Vanlancker owner of Domaine Combe Blanche in the village of La Liviniere.

You drive past acres and acres of vineyards on the flat plains of the Minervois AOC where in the hot summer months grapes mercilessly bake in the sun. These vineyards are some of the earliest to be harvested and the wines from here tend to be unstructured and overly fruit-driven.

La Liviniere and the vineyards of Combe Blanche which means small white valley are located hills and valleys at 700 feet altitude. It was unusually cold but sunny so we decided to drive up into the hills to inspect his vineyards and talk shop. Soils are limestone and red clay and many vineyards are north facing. Because they receive less direct sunlight and they therefore have a longer more gradual growing season. All of these factors make for more aromatic, rich and complex wines.

You won’t find state of the art vinification equipment in his cramped but functional cellars. But when you start with healthy grapes taken from some of the best vineyards in the appellation you don’t need much else to make great wine.

"Les Morels" hot, dry and early ripening vineyards, the Coteaux in the background

In the mouth I found black cherry, currants, leather, spice, tart red berries, spice, and pepper.  I thought the wine had great acidity and nice tannins. I think I’d serve this with one of my lamb dishes as a substitute for a full on Syrah, just for something a bit different. See full article

The summer heat continued well into September in the Languedoc.  Despite the lack of rain yields were average this year.  Grapes were perfectly healthy when harvesting began on August 28th. Due to the favorable weather and excellent quality of the grapes harvesting was able to continue to October 13th.

1792: The new cuvée:

Chateau Moyau has its origins from the Middle Ages.  Legend has it that the original settlers were pirates whose leader answered to the name Moyau.  Another story claims that Moyau is derived from the word marais or marsh.  A 1792 map documents the presence of a village called Moyau then called Mautÿa in the Occitan language. Some of the buildings at Chateau Moyau date to this time.

1792 is a Grenache based cuvée: full-bodied, soft nose with notes of woody undergrowth, truffles and black fruits.  Its starts with a freshness in the front of the mouth and releases fine complex aromas and powerful tannins