The theme was Bordeaux and they had representatives from the chateaux pouring mostly recent vintages.  Although Domaine de Jaugarat in Saint Julien had a 1989 vintage, which was an exceptional year in Bordeaux.  I found it to be still developing and gaining complexity and nuance.

I also had a nice conversation with Paul Barre owner of Chateau La Grave in Fronsac.  They have been practicing bio-dynamic viticulture since 1990. I asked him about the vinification of his wines.  ”We harvest everything by hand, no filtration, no fining and no oenologue.  We do laboratory analysis of the wines but we don’t have an oenlogist telling us how to make our wines.”   I also asked him if he learned about winemaking from his father.  ”My father was actually a wine broker in Bordeaux so I learned the more from trial an error.”  I enjoyed both of his 2005′s and found La Fleur Cailleau de Fronsac to have a great spicy nose, gripping tannins and lots for black cheery flavors.  His efforts have been recognized in the important French wine guides, Le Guide Hachette, Gault Millau.

Sidwalk Bordeaux Tasting at Caves Augé in Paris

Since the Duval-Fleury and Corneau families bought the Chateau La Bienfaisance in 1991 sought to invest in the estate with the goal being among bestproducers in Saint-Emilion.  Since 1998 they have collaborated with highly regarded wine consultant Stephane Derenoncourt.

open top vat from Ch. Cantinot

More recently, they purchased a vineyard on the Saint-Emilion limestone plateau – soils which tend to produce the richest and most complex wines.  I recently spoke with the director at Chateau La Bienfaisance and they have now completed the installation of new open top oak fermentation vats.  Not very exciting news in and of itself but it signifies their continued commitment to producing the best quality wines.  These vats replaced at the large concrete glass lined vats and allows them to tailor vinifications on a parcel by parcel basis.

Slowly Chateau La Bienfaisance has been recognized for the quality and value of their wines.  The New York Time Wine Club recently selected Chateau La Bienfaisance 2004 for their upcoming January shipment.  They source limited production wines that are not widely available in the US.  Members receive booklets of recipes for food pairings taken from the Times archives with their wine shipments.  The club is managed by California based Global Wine Company and is run independently of the Times editorial sections.  You have until January 6 to sign up to receive the January shipment or you can find it as part of the our Bordeaux Sampler- 3 bottles for $75 + Free Shipping.